The Microclimate of a Garden

When a new design is to be implemented into a garden, the local climate of the area is extremely important, but a microclimate that exists within the actual garden should also be taken into consideration. Adding to this, the new design can generate further microclimates in different parts of the garden by incorporating new structures such as trees, hedges, trellis, fencing, paving and
solid walls.

We could say there is microclimate within a microclimate within a localised climate. Phew! Now that has been clarified, we can take a closer look at the key elements that create a microclimate.

1.Sunlight

Sunlight plays a major role in plant growth and supplies energy to not only raise the air temperature but also the temperature of the soil.

A designer can position the garden beds to benefit from maximum sunshine and by also planting against existing south facing walls that absorb the heat radiation to maximise on flowering and fruiting.
The addition of a south facing terraced area, particularly of a natural stone, will raise the temperature and enable many potted plants to thrive and any raised garden beds in the vicinity will benefit immensely, not to mention a warmer area for seating and al fresco dining too.

A glasshouse retains vast amounts of heat radiation and is highly recommended for those tender loving plants that are more suited for a warmer Mediterranean climate. Cold frames and glasshouses enable complete control from the elements and a variety of microclimates can be created, the positioning is of the up most importance; away from shade, falling leaves and wind funnels.
A water feature, such as a pond, can maintain a cool temperature in relation to the surrounding area and a genial place to repose.

Plants grown against a north facing solid wall will most likely be subjected to full shade and cooler temperatures in comparison
to the south facing side of the wall which will be subjected to full sun and a different microclimate.
The area of shade in the winter can be much greater than during the summer as the sun sits higher in the sky.

Introducing large trees will create areas of shade and again changing the microclimate. Planting under treetop canopies and next to hedges will more likely be subjected to a dapple shade and experience an environment similar to that of a woodland.

It is, therefore, important when designing a new garden to take into consideration the newly formed areas that increase heat and shade from new structures such as a solid wall, fencing, trellis, pergolas and trees.

2.Wind

Wind has a huge effect on the design of a garden and it should be managed and mitigated to prevent damage to plants and structures.
Strong winds can cause havoc, but light winds are beneficial in preventing a stagnant atmosphere and the diseases that thrive in humidity.
Wind funnelling may exist in the garden and it is best to avoid planting delicate plants in these areas.
There are two main types of windbreak that can be implemented; a structural windbreak or a natural windbreak.
A man-made structure should be permeable to allow some gusts to pass through, albeit, at a reduced speed, a bespoke timber slat fence is an ideal example. A solid non-impermeable windbreak, such as a brick wall at times can be ineffective as downdraught and turbulence will exist on the leeward side.
A natural windbreak will consist of planting a suitable hedge or trees to lessen the wind as it passes through and into the garden.
It should be noted that the growing conditions on each side of a windbreak will be different; the leeward side close to the hedge or wall may also receive less rainfall.

The conclusion:
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It is possible to create a variety of different microclimates within a single garden, that in itself may have its own localised or microclimate in relation to its surrounding area.

Plants which possess silver foliage can compliment a garden in many different ways, they provide a distinct contrast planted alongside green foliage and they can provide an all year round interest, brightening up an otherwise lacklustre area of the garden. But, it is not only a dull area that can benefit from the addition of a glaucous colour, a great attribute of silver/grey foliage is the ability to reflect sunlight and conserve water, this is enhanced by the hairy type foliage or a waxy texture of the leaves which many possess.

Many of theses plants are native to hot and dry areas and therefore drought tolerant, requiring low maintenance and will perform well in a full sun area of the garden with well drained soil.

Silver foliage adds elegance and a cool sophistication to the garden and can be found on large trees down to small ground cover shrubs and perennials. Eucalyptus, the snow gum tree, is one of the hardiest of Eucalyptus and the grey
tinged leaves on white twigs radiates an impression of silver, complimented by a grey /white smooth trunk.

Pittosporum tenuifolium ‘Silver Queen’ is a large shrub which can grow to a height of four metres. Its latin name denotes thin leaves, these having white markings on the edges, giving an affect of a silvery foliage. It is an ideal plant for coastal areas. Popular small to mid-sized shrubs are lavender and Helichrysum, both release pleasant aromas, the latter being more known as the Curry plant due to its distinct curry fragrance.

With regards to small shrubs and perennials, there are plenty available and more to choose from. Convolvulus cneorm is a small shrub native to the mediterranean and displays silk grey hairs on its evergreen foliage, hence it being more known as the Silver Bush.  Santolina or Cotton lavender is ideal for ground cover and filling in gaps within the borders, the yellow pompom flowers provide a nice contrast with the silver fragrant foliage.

Another popular ground cover is the perennial Lambs Ear or
​. It is also known as Silver Carpet and has oval, woolly silver leaves with fine hairs and is suitable for the front of borders, covering areas with its carpet, mat forming
characteristics. There are numerous other silver foliage plants, the following are popular;

- Senecio cineraria/Silver Dust
- Sea Holly/ Eryngiums.
- Cardoon/Cynara cardunculus
- Bluebeard/Caryopteris
- Honeywort/Cerinthe major
- Rose Campion/Lychnis coronaria
- Brunnera macrophylla/Jack Frost

If not already in possession of silver leaf plants, then why not incorporate some into the garden, either in shade or full sun areas and if every cloud has a silver lining, then surely every garden should have some silver foliage.

We often strive for an orderly and well maintained garden, one which looks tidy with regular pruning, mowing of lawns and the weeding of garden beds. Aesthetically pleasing and satisfying this may be, the garden, however, becomes devoid of any mess and untidiness, and this in due course can have an adverse affect on the wildlife and beneficial insects.

The beneficial insects being those which create a natural ecological balance within the garden, attracting a range of prey and predators. These insects and mammals work in harmony and will reduce the unwanted pests which can attack the vegetable garden and shrubs alike. They will also lessen the need for any chemical applications. To entice these insects into the garden, a suitable, natural habitat is required, and the most appropriate is a dead wood habitat, essentially, a pile of logs or a wood stack.

Winter is an ideal time to procure the dead wood, either from gathering any fallen branches within the garden or by pruning the dead limbs and branches, particularly from deciduous trees and shrubs. Avoid collecting the wood from natural woodlands and hedgerows as this will be disrupting an existing habitat and the natural environment.
Alternatively, ask neighbours if they have any excess dead wood they are wanting rid of, I am sure it would be greatly appreciated.

The location of the wood pile within the garden is critical for a successful dead wood habitat, it should be away from direct sunlight and sited in a full shade area, or with dapple light. This environment will augment the wood decay and encourage fungi, mosses, lichens and insects.

To construct a log pile it is advisable to find logs with the bark still attached, the bottom layer of say four to five logs to be partially buried into the ground, the decaying wood beneath the soil’s surface attracts certain types of beetle. Ensure there are nooks and crannies for insects and mammals to enter and then add leaf litter into the gaps to encourage hedgehogs seeking hibernation. Another couple of log rows can be placed on top, the dark and damp conditions will lure centipedes, millipedes and woodlice which in turn attract the predators such as birds, toads and hedgehogs.

A wood stack is constructed with smaller branches and twigs and is just as beneficial as a log pile for wildlife. Firstly, it is recommended that branches/stakes are driven vertically into the ground, forming a rectangular shape and with approximately half metre remaining above ground.

Then start with laying the larger branches at the bottom and begin to fill the formed rectangular shape with the remaining branches and twigs until the desired height is reached.

A mixture of wood is good for both log pile and wood stack, however, poplar and willow cuttings can have a tendency to re-sprout if in prolonged contact with the ground. The wood will slowly decay over a duration of time and more can always be added, thus, a permanent home has now been created to encourage the beneficial insects and assist
towards a balanced ecological garden. If unsure how to dispose of the logs and wood cuttings, then why not transmute them into a dead wood habitat, as dead wood breeds life.