Bridging conventional gardens with aesthetic and useful herbaceous weeds merges wild beauty with tamed functionality, creating a harmonious balance. 

Traditionally, gardens valued ornamental plants and manicured lawns, keeping wild native plants well out of the way. However, bringing these plants internationally in amongst hybrids creates a more biodiverse and resilient garden. Incorporating species such as dandelions, chicory, yarrow, fennel, and teasel adds visual beauty, diversity, and architectural structure while attracting wildlife. These plants require minimal care, making them ideal for busy lives & sustainable gardening practices.

When you work with nature, rather than against it, you have an ecosystem on your side, forming a foundation to build upon. Teasel and fennel, for example, provide food for birds, shelter for insects, and vertical interest as ornamental plants. Herbs like valerian and yarrow are both aesthetically pleasing and excellent for pollination, as well as having medicinal uses. Yarrow, with its deep roots, supports beneficial insects and improves soil health. Allowing more diversity in lawns with clover and dandelions enhances the garden environment. Clover fixes nitrogen in the soil, improving fertility, while dandelions offer an additional opportunity to make more interesting salads and Chamomile provides soothing teas and medicinal benefits, creating an insect-rich habitat that promotes pollination and contributes to a flourishing garden.

There are many more plants with medicinal, culinary, and diverse contributions to the garden. If this is not enough to spark interest, consider that these plants have spent millennia becoming perfect for their environment, making your job as a gardener easier while supporting the ecosystem. Integrating herbaceous weeds into conventional gardens requires a shift in perception. Recognizing their value beyond being nuisances, gardeners can blend these plants seamlessly into landscapes. This approach enhances aesthetic and functional diversity, promoting environmental sustainability and creating spaces that are both beautiful and beneficial to the ecosystem.

For further information about Landscaping /installation and integrating the wild into your space, please do not hesitate to get in touch. Call Alex on 07421 085 788.

​contribution by Alice Rollinson, thanks Alice

Most, if not all gardens there will exist an area subjected to shade, an area of comparative darkness and coolness caused by a shelter from the direct sunlight.

As the summer approaches and the strength of the sun’s rays increase, the shady areas which are often neglected should perhaps be embraced and appreciated more. Shade is created by buildings, walls, fences or tree top canopies and when a solid structure is the cause, more often than not, it will provide protection against wind too.

This microclimate can provide a pleasant seating area on a hard or soft landscaped surface, providing protection from the midday sun and strong winds. Climbing plants which are suitable to grow in shade are:
​

• Trachelospermum Jasminiode
• Parthenocissus Quinquefolia aka Virginia Creeper
• Clematis
• Lonicera aka Honeysuckle
• Hydrangea Petiolaris

Certain types of climbing roses are also shade tolerant and some climbers are more vigorous than others which should be taken into consideration.

Shrubs can be planted directly into the ground or the use of pots maybe more appropriate. As with climbers, many shrubs can provide a profusion of colour within an area of comparative darkness.

Popular shrubs for growing in the shade are:

• Sarcococca Hookeriana
• Mahonia
• Camellia
• Hydrangea
• Fatsia Japonica
• Hostas

There are numerous other shrubs which are compatible with shade and it is advisable to research online or a visit to a nearby garden centre. The average temperature will also has a huge affect on the plants growing rate and an area of shade is most likely to have a North or North Easterly aspect and subject to cold, if not freezing temperatures during the winter. This should be taken into consideration before plant selection. Treetop canopies can provide full shade to a dapple shade and the choice of planting here should be more akin to a natural woodland environment. These would be perennials which return each year such as:

• Digitalis/Foxglove
  
• Hyacinthoides/Common Bluebells
  
• Allium ursinum/Wild Garlic
  
• Lamium/Dead Nettle.

The above, once again can bring great colour and vibrancy to an otherwise sombre section
of the garden.

Therefore, no longer be kept in the dark, surround oneself with an abundance of colour and
sally forth into the shade.

Having made the obligatory bookends back in the mid 70’s, my path to wood-working was set.

Wood is one of those materials that you do not need a huge number of tools to be able to create and craft something from, a simple pocketknife is where most people can start. whittling....... a pointy stick, a bow some arrows, a spoon, a candlestick for granny.... and here the seed is planted for life; great oaks from little acorns grow. I am not saying we will all become great furniture makers or timber building experts, but you can make a living out of it. Over the course of my varied career I have often relied on my wood working skills in between jobs!  To physically build something with your own hands I believe is possibly one of the most satisfying things that you can do. Start small and work your way up.

Hard or soft, interior or exterior that is the question. Wood has been used over the centuries utilising its natural strength, durability, lightweight, and adaptability to build virtually anything! Different woods have different properties. I will confine my thoughts to the UK rather than the global list of timber. At the hard and durable end of the scale is the mighty Oak, usable both in its natural or ‘Green’ state for traditional timer framed houses or dried for furniture indoors or outdoors. Then there are the likes of Cedar and Larch both known for their natural durability especially outside, as in roof shingle/tiles and building cladding respectively. Then we move towards the softer woods, mainly used in modern house constriction, these can be slower grown such as the Scots Pine, or faster growing and softer Douglas Fir. All woods have their own unique properties such as Willow for cricket bats or Yew for longbows; they can be used in their natural form such as Hazel hurdles or kiln dried for fine quality furniture.

"To physically build something with your own hands I believe is possibly one of the most satisfying things that you can do. Start small and work your way up."

Whatever you decide to make there is always a tool for it, if correctly sharpened and used it can make your life much easier; but it is amazing what you can do with just a hand saw, a hammer and some nails! One of the most important things to remember is that wood working tools are sharp so that they can cut or slice through the tough fibres of the timber, what you do not want is the same cutting edge doing damage to flesh and bone. I have never met a woodworker who has not had too close an encounter with one of his tools and displays the scars with pride; but I do not
recommend it!

Now for the juicier bit… how and what to do with that wasted area in the garden that is on too steep a slope to be of any use, except as an Eddie the Eagle practice ski slope. Perhaps you need to extend your internal entertaining house space by taking the inside out! Building a Deck area either alongside your house or to create a special area within the garden does not have to be too daunting a task. In a nutshell, or perhaps I should say an Acorn? There are a few factors to take into consideration. For the sake of this blog I will assume that you have decided on a decking area rather than a stone patio. I will also take a more practical look at the process. Things to consider.

What material you want to use, there are several choices; dependent on budget, aesthetics, maintenance, and environmental impact… the choice is yours? Woods like Larch or Cedar that are more water resistant than say pressure treated sort woods. Hardwoods such as Teak or Oak are at the pricier end of the range but require less maintenance. Wood-polymer composite decking, made from recycled plastic and wood fibres, has come a long way in the last few years and in my opinion is a much better alternative to plastic (hollow) decking and has some qualities that start to compete with the softer wood options; both on longevity and upkeep. For a more contemporary feel there is Aluminium, generally made from recycled products. I have recently come across and worked with charred timber planks for decking. A technique originally used by the Japanese in the 18 th century referred to as “Shou Sugi Ban”. The surface of the timber is burnt to enhance its durability and aesthetics.

Whether it is a slopey side of a hill or an uneven bit of useless ground beside your home, setting your datum or starting point is essential. I like to call it “The Motherboard”, all boards are created equal, but some are more equal than others! If
you get this one right everything generally goes to plan, if not chaos will reign! This could simply be your desired finishing height or the height of an existing step or patio.

 "I have recently come across and worked with charred timber planks for decking. A technique originally used by the Japanese in the 18 th century referred to as “Shou Sugi Ban”. The surface of the timber is burnt to enhance its durability and aesthetics."

You need to keep the decking planks up and away from potentially wet ground, therefore a solid and stable sub-structure is needed. You can either use concrete slabs or blocks or 100mm x 100mm posts concreted into the ground, this is my
preferred option as it ensures that what you build stays there! I would then normally recommend 50mm x 150mm pressure treated softwood or 6” x 2” for those of my age bracket (we don't discriminate); smaller timbers can be used if space and height is an issue but you will need to reduce your span distances accordingly. Then to nogging or not to nogging is the question? A nogging or a dwang if you are in Scotland or NZ, is a bracing piece of wood fitted between floor joists to prevent them from twisting under pressure; only really needed with larger structures and greater spans. I find the combination of upright posts and the decking boards themselves do for solid structure, another reason why I like to use posts. Then its just a case of laying out and fixing your boards; two screws in each board on every joist, with a 5mm gap between boards; a good little impact-driver savers a lot of time and your drill. Until next time.

Capt. Stardust

20/7/2020